At what temperature will the walls on the street and in the house without heating are plastered

A typical task for both interior and exterior home projects is plastering walls. Many factors affect how well your plastering job turns out, but one of the most important ones is the temperature. Plaster can adhere well, set correctly, and produce the desired finish if the proper temperature conditions are understood.

The weather must be taken into consideration when plastering walls, whether they are outside or in an unheated interior space. Depending on whether it is applied in hot, cold, or humid conditions, plaster can behave differently. Plaster may crack or adhere poorly if the temperature is too low, preventing proper curing of the material. On the other hand, if it’s too high, the plaster might dry too quickly and result in similar problems.

The ideal temperature range for exterior plastering is typically between 50°F (10°C) and 85°F (29°C). Maintaining this range aids in ensuring that the plaster sets as quickly as possible. The water in the plaster mix may freeze if the temperature falls below 40°F (4°C), which would hinder proper curing and produce a weak finish.

After plastering, the temperature inside unheated buildings should ideally be kept above 50°F (10°C) for at least 48 hours. The plaster can set and dry evenly thanks to this consistent warmth. To create these conditions in colder climates, temporary heating solutions are frequently required.

Your plastering job’s longevity and quality can be greatly impacted by keeping an eye on the temperature and making any necessary adjustments. You can steer clear of typical pitfalls and guarantee a smooth, expert wall finish by paying attention to these details.

Both indoors and outdoors, the temperature needs to be carefully considered for best plastering results. Plaster should ideally be applied in the range of 50°F to 85°F (10°C to 29°C). Plaster that has been exposed to temperatures below 50°F may freeze before it has had a chance to cure, resulting in poor adhesion and cracks. Extremely cold or wet weather should be avoided for outdoor walls as it can interfere with the drying process. For a smooth and long-lasting finish, make sure the temperature inside unheated areas stays steady within the advised range.

Features and types of plaster

Plastering is done to improve the aesthetic appeal of surfaces, protect them from damage, and align them. Plastering walls, ceilings, and other structures requires the application of diverse construction solutions.

• Cement-sand-the most popular, are inexpensive, easily prepared with their own hands;
• Cement-license and sand-after replacing a part of the cement, lime acquire lightness, plasticity, however, a little lost in strength;
• gypsum and gypsum-license-are used indoors, for the street they are not suitable, since they cannot withstand moisture and temperature changes;
• Acrylic – thanks to the presence of acrylic resins gain increased moisture resistance, excellent adhesion with all construction bases;
• Silicone – moisture resistant, strong, reliable, vapor -permeable, but the most expensive;
• Silicato – compositions based on potassium glass with increased strength, ideal for street work.

Numerous factors are considered when selecting a plaster, including humidity, the method of application, the coating’s drying conditions, and ambient temperature. D. Additionally, various compositional additives are used for plastering surfaces, which not only enhance their technical properties but also broaden their application temperature range.

Temperature for plastering work

Determining the appropriate temperature to work at and the best time to put off finishing is crucial when performing winter work outside or in a cold room.

On the street

The temperature range for plastering a building’s facade is established by construction standards:

• The air should heat up to at least +8 degrees, although some mixtures allow application at +5 degrees (we are talking about both the time of work and the period of drying of the composition);
• subject to the addition of special frost -resistant additives to the plaster, you can carry out even during frost (a specific minimum temperature is always indicated on the packaging);
• The temperature of the mixture itself should also not be lower than +8 degrees, which is especially important in the machine method of plastering;
• On the day of applying the plaster, there should be no wind, as well as any precipitation;
• It is important that the thawing of the wall has already occurred more than ½ thickness;
• If the indicated conditions are not possible, the walls or other street structures can be temporarily thermal insulation.

Additionally, it’s important to make sure the object’s moisture content doesn’t exceed 8% while plastering is underway. A construction hair dryer or heat gun will be helpful in drying the base and removing the ice that results. You can prepare the surface more consistently and easily with the aid of these tools. The "old fashioned way" of wetting the walls with hot water is not recommended because it will unnecessarily moisten the base and cause instability in the finished plaster layer, which will cause it to fall off with a layer quickly.

Inside the house

A number of crucial requirements must also be met during the finishing work if the room is not heated. On the day of plaster application, the air temperature here should not drop below +8 degrees, and it should not drop below +5… +8 degrees while the plaster is drying.

It is important to keep in mind that cement mixtures can take up to 14 days to completely dry, while gypsum and lime compositions can take 7-8 days. During this time, you should ventilate the room at least twice a day to remove any excess moisture. Synthetic-component construction mixes might not need ventilation, which is always a sign of the packaging.

In unheated rooms, the surface temperature of the walls must be at least +8 degrees when measured 50 centimeters above the floor (the coldest point). It is required that the coating temperature ceiling not exceed +30 degrees. In the event that the specified circumstances are not satisfied, the plaster is treated with anti-icosis additives, or the space is heated. Plastering can begin once the walls are heated to ½ of their thickness.

The specifics of work at a negative temperature

The only methods for plastering facades at below-freezing temperatures are mixtures that have been mixed with specific chemicals. Since it is nearly impossible to warm the facade to the point where the plaster freezes in its normal state, the latter option offers dependable composition setup even in cold weather. Powerful thermal guns can only be used to heat the wall to +18–+20 degrees before applying plaster at a somewhat lowered temperature.

The typical construction solution freezes in the winter instead of drying, which is why additives are required. As a result, the plaster layer starts to crumble after warming. The mass does not lose its properties when modifiers are added; rather, it keeps its plasticity until it freezes. It is crucial to keep in mind that plastering cannot be done at all on slopes or other areas that are exposed to a lot of unfavorable elements, such as frost. This work will have to wait until spring, as a solid plaster layer won’t form here in the winter.

What threatens non -compliance with the temperature regime

The hungry walls typically lose perfect evenness when there is a brief departure from the temperature regime or when it is violated within negligible bounds because the coating takes on a wave-like appearance. The walls frequently exhibit some "floating" due to the finish’s deformation and weight-lifting ability.

If deviations in technology were more severe, this could lead to numerous other issues:

• the appearance of a net of cracks or very deep cracks;
• loss of adhesion of plaster with the base;
• collapse of the entire layer of construction mixture.

Frost -resistant plaster: types

Special additives are added to plaster, which can be purchased ready-made or homemade, to increase its resistance to frost. Use ammonia water, potash, and chlorine water the most frequently; potassium and sodium chloride are used less frequently. The final two additives are not as well-liked since they can cause heights to appear on the solution’s surface once heat starts to build.

Chlorine water

If the construction mixture is not on ordinary, but on chlorine water, then you can work with it up to –25 degrees of frost. They apply such a composition as standard, not particularly caring for technology, but only following the thickness of the layer (it should not be too big). To prepare the product, the water is heated to +35 degrees, 1.5 kg of chlorine is administered for every 10 liters of liquid, mix well. After dissolving, the composition is removed under the lid for 1.5 hours, then it is used as needed. Cement and other plasters are prepared on such water for decoration of wood, concrete, brick. Work with chlorine only in gloves, protective clothes and respirator!

To be content ↑

Potash

For the preparation of plaster, which is used to finish reinforced structures, potash (potassium carbonate) is perfect. This is because adding this material does not increase the chance of corrosion destruction. Potash enables you to improve the solution’s resistance to precipitation, temperature extremes, and other unfavorable factors and to give it protective qualities.

While using the least expensive brands of cement is permitted, the potash solution is frequently used to breed cement, clay, and lime solutions. In the event that the outside temperature does not drop below -5 degrees, add 1% of dry potash to the total mass. One to two percent of the substance is added at lower temperatures. The 1: 3 ratio is used to prepare the cement mortar with sand. It is then diluted with water and an aqueous solution is added to the dial that has already been measured.

Ammonia water

Additionally highly effective, this DIY addition can maximize plaster’s wintertime qualities. Even the master himself will find working with solutions at -30 degrees to be very unfavorable, but ammonia water makes it possible.

This additive works best when working with cement and cement-license mixtures; it is completely inappropriate for breeding compositions that contain clay or gypsum. After the plaster is complete, ammonia water is added; the solution’s ammonia content should be 6%. In order to accomplish this, take one liter of industrial 25% composition and add 3.16 liters of water that isn’t hotter than five degrees (any higher and the ammonia will start to evaporate). One liter of ammonia requires 1.5 liters of water if the initial composition has a 15% concentration.

The plaster’s temperature must be recorded and compared to the surrounding air temperature before ammonia water is added. The temperature of the solution should be between +2 and +3 degrees if the outside temperature is -15 degrees. You need a warmer plaster (about +5 degrees) when the outside temperature is -25 to -30 degrees.

Modern materials

Plastering at temperatures as low as -50 degrees is now possible thanks to ready-made additives found in construction stores. These additives are based on synthetic materials. They give mixtures strength, resilience to water, elasticity, and speed up drying. In contrast to certain homemade additives, these substances do not give the impression of height. One drawback of these tools is that plasters made with them have a significant weight difference (nearly 1.5 times heavier than standard).

Both dry additives and plasters that already have frost-resistant ingredients added to their composition are available for purchase. The following are the most well-known brands:

• Bergauf;
• Vetonit;
• Henkel;
• "Remix".

Preparation of walls

You must meticulously get ready for work on the item that will be plastered during the winter. The caliber of preparation will have a direct impact on how long the plastering layer lasts. The walls are primarily mechanically cleared of ice and snow (boiling water will turn into an ore on its own). Additionally, the surface is cleared of fat patches, altitude, and pantry remnants.

Rather than creating notches to improve the clutch, the facades’ seams and fractures are filled individually. After priming the walls and allowing them to dry, work is done.

How to dry the plaster in winter

Plaster solutions require distinct drying conditions due to their uneven composition. For instance, in order for lime building mixtures to remain strong after drying, carbon dioxide from the atmosphere is required. Therefore, the plaster layer won’t become sturdy and dependable if the process is forced to accelerate. To make sure there is enough airflow, you should ventilate the room on a regular basis for 1.5–2 weeks.

When discussing gypsum solution, it must also be dried using daily ventilations, but without allowing drafts to form. For instance, you can only open the window slightly in the winter to allow fresh air to enter. Cement plasters do not require ventilation and can dry in as little as two weeks, but they do require enough air humidity (between 50% and 60%).

Location	Temperature for Plastering
Outdoor walls	Above 5°C (41°F)
Indoor walls without heating	Above 10°C (50°F)

Temperature is a major factor in the success and longevity of plastering walls, both outside and indoors in non-heated spaces. The ideal range of temperatures to work in for outdoor plastering is typically 50°F to 86°F (10°C to 30°C). This range makes sure the plaster cures correctly, preventing cracks and other problems from arising from drying too quickly or freezing.

Similar temperature guidelines apply indoors in unheated spaces. A temperature range of 50°F to 86°F (10°C to 30°C) is what you want. Should the interior temperature drop below this range, the plaster might not solidify properly, resulting in a less durable finish. Furthermore, excessive heat can speed up the drying process of plaster, leading to poor adhesion and cracking.

It’s also critical to keep the temperature constant. Uneven curing of the plaster can be impacted by abrupt drops or spikes. When working in colder climates, portable heaters can help maintain a consistent temperature. However, to avoid localized drying, make sure the heat is dispersed equally.

Ultimately, obtaining a smooth, long-lasting plaster finish depends on the proper temperature. Whether you’re plastering in an unheated interior space or outdoors, you can guarantee excellent results by keeping an eye on and regulating the temperature during the process.

Video on the topic

How to plaster the walls of the house if a house without heating? Mechanized houses plaster

#3 Is it possible to live in an unsuitable house from expanded clay block!? Stucked walls of the house "In one"

Never insulate the walls from the outside if there is an air gap

Plaster in the cold | Antorostous supplement

Gypsum plaster stood winter without heating. What happened to her.

Simplifice gypsum winter? | Can be plastered if the house does not heat