Selecting the appropriate plaster for your bathroom is essential for both practicality and style. Because bathrooms have a lot of moisture, the plaster you choose needs to be able to resist humidity and stop mold from growing. You can ensure a long-lasting and attractive finish by making an informed decision by being aware of the various bathroom plaster options.
Lime plaster, cement plaster, and contemporary synthetic plasters are among the plaster varieties that are appropriate for use in bathrooms. While cement plaster offers superior durability and water resistance, lime plaster is naturally mold resistant and breathable. DIY enthusiasts often choose synthetic plasters because they are flexible and simple to apply, such as those made of silicone or acrylic.
It’s just as crucial to apply bathroom plaster correctly as it is to select the appropriate kind. Start by getting the surface ready by giving it a thorough cleaning and filling in any holes or cracks. A dry surface is a prerequisite for beginning the plastering process. Plaster longevity can be increased and adhesion strengthened by applying a primer. Plaster should be mixed and applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions, usually in thin, even layers.
Before adding paint or tiles, let the plaster completely dry after application. A smooth, even finish and the avoidance of cracks depend on the right drying time. Maintaining your bathroom plaster will help keep it in good condition and functional for many years to come. Simple maintenance tasks include cleaning and looking for wear or damage.
Factors to Consider | Application Tips |
Moisture resistance | Ensure the plaster is suitable for humid environments like bathrooms. |
Adhesion | Choose a plaster that adheres well to various surfaces commonly found in bathrooms. |
Mold and mildew resistance | Opt for a plaster with additives to prevent the growth of mold and mildew. |
Surface preparation | Thoroughly clean and dry the surface before applying plaster to ensure proper adhesion. |
Application technique | Follow manufacturer instructions carefully for the best results. |
- Do I need to plaster the walls in the bathroom
- Requirements for plastering material
- Types of plain plasters and their characteristics
- Cement plaster
- Gypsum plaster
- Silicone plaster
- Sanitary compositions
- Facade plaster
- Decorative plaster
- The better to plaster the walls in the bathroom
- Under the tile
- For painting
- Waterproofing compounds
- Wall alignment technology plaster
- Materials and tools
- Preparation of the grounds for work
- Installation of lighthouses
- Calculation of the material
- Preparation of plaster
- Application of plaster
- Starting layer
- Black finish
- Finish processing
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Do I need to plaster the walls in the bathroom
The bathroom wall surrender is a necessary step in the finishing process that enables you to fix any flaws in the wall and get rid of any irregularities. Plaster is necessary for leveling the base, which makes it possible to lay the finish materials beautifully. If the walls didn’t become smooth, they couldn’t be painted, and there might be issues when the plumbing is installed. To put it simply, the quality of the plastering on the bathroom walls has a significant impact on both the room’s appearance and functionality.
It is erroneous to believe that tile adhesive, when applied in large quantities, can accommodate surface irregularities. The adhesive mixture must be applied precisely in accordance with technology and in a relatively thin layer; only then will it not fracture and the tile will be firmly adhered to the wall. Plastering can only be avoided in situations where the walls are sheathed, such as with plastic panels, moisture-resistant OSB, or GKL. They are already equal in this case, so the solution does not need to be applied.
Requirements for plastering material
Only moisture-resistant plaster is used for work in wet areas like bathrooms. The water resistance indicator should be at its maximum since it is the most crucial factor in selecting the material. It is equally crucial that the plaster has strong adhesion to the base and matches its composition. For instance, plasters based on coarse sand work better for brick masonry, while fine-grained sand works better for decorating block surfaces.
Additional conditions for a plaster in a bathroom:
- increased strength, the ability to maintain heavy tiles;
- environmental friendliness and harmlessness for humans;
- high density and ease of application;
- elasticity, the ability to resist cracking during wall shrinkage;
- resistance to mold and fungus;
- long service life;
- non -expired shelter.
Types of plain plasters and their characteristics
Many building mixtures with varying compositions, qualities, and application methods are available from modern manufacturers. The majority require diluting with water, but some—those that cost more—are available in their completed form. Every type of plaster can be categorized in the following manner based on its "relationship" with moisture:
- Moisture -resistant plasters. Perfectly tolerate increased humidity and short -term direct contact with water.
- Hydrophobic plasters. A strong film with a water -repellent effect is formed on the surface.
Cement plaster
The most affordable and widely used mixtures are those based on Portland cement. Sand is also added to the composition, along with plasticizers, hydrophobic additives, and materials that boost the final product’s elasticity. Because of their high additive content and resistance to moisture, cement plasters do not degrade when exposed to temperature changes or water seeping into the walls. Superior cement plasters are known to:
- affordable price;
- lack of harmful components;
- high strength;
- durability;
- tolerance of weight and mechanical loads.
One advantage of the plasters is that you can dilute a large portion of the mixture in a single dose, which accounts for their relatively slow drying time. Plasticizers make it simple and comfortable to apply solutions that adhere to surfaces right away.
One of the drawbacks is that materials shrink with time, but this does not reach appreciable thresholds and can be mitigated by adding unique elements. You will have to wait a few days or longer until the wall and cement set are completely dry before lining. Cement plasters containing hydrophobic additives are far more expensive than traditional cement and sand compositions, which aren’t appropriate for use in bathrooms. It turns out rather rude that you will need to putty the coating again before staining.
Gypsum plaster
The choice cannot be considered successful for the bathroom because such plasters can absorb moisture. Gypsum, a roughly ground mineral that has been heated, is their primary constituent. It can also be slightly bigger alabaster. Special modifiers are added to gypsum plasters to increase their moisture resistance, although bathrooms hardly ever use them.
Large room dimensions and the presence of a powerful hood are the only conditions for using such material. Condensate will accumulate on the small area in the absence of wall ventilation, and the porosity of the gypsum decoration will cause it to collapse quickly. Furthermore, plaster is coated in multiple layers of waterproof primer prior to tile pasting or staining in order to shield the gypsum from moisture.
Among the benefits of gypsum plasters are the following:
- high clutch force with walls from any building materials;
- excellent plasticity;
- cost -effectiveness, low price;
- the ability to abandon putty before painting due to the evenness of the fraction.
Silicone plaster
These combinations are based on silicone resins, which genuinely repel water and show no fear of mold or fungus. Silicone mixtures can be applied easily enough even for a novice to handle. They are incredibly durable and can last for several decades. They also do not collect dirt or deteriorate due to temperature changes or UV radiation.
Since ready silicone mixtures can be tinted, they are frequently used as ornamental plasters. The sole drawback is the high cost of compositions and their incapacity to equalize significant flaws and deep fissures. Silicone plasters are typically applied as a final coating.
Sanitary compositions
Sanitary plasters are a distinct category apart from other types of plaster. They are intended to drain ceilings and walls in spaces where there is a greater chance of mold growth, fungus development, and the appearance of heights. Cement and specific polymer additives, plasticizers, and additives are typically used in production. Consequently, the following capabilities are gained by the solution:
- creation of a moisture -resistant vapor permeable layer;
- water removal from structures;
- ensuring reliable waterproofing of decor;
- regulation of the humidity indicator in the room;
- equalization of the base;
- Preparation for decorative coating.
When special ingredients are added, the composition gets more resilient and plastic, but it takes much longer to dry. The finishing stage of the work should occur at least 7 days after the draft plastering with rehabilitation solutions.
Facade plaster
Façade (street) plasters are useful for leveling walls in high-humidity areas. These mixtures have many benefits, including the ability to withstand sunlight, precipitation, and temperature changes without degrading. Most mixtures for facades are robust and long-lasting.
The rudeness of these materials, which are primarily represented by large grinding components, is their drawback. Their poor fit in the apartment’s interior means they won’t work as a finish. It’s crucial to understand the plaster’s composition as well because certain facade mixtures include additives that are all equally safe for the environment.
Decorative plaster
With its ornate plaster décor, the bathroom appears new and uneven. With this material, you can conceal minor base flaws and create stunning texture coatings. Mixtures containing these kinds of moisture-repellent additives are typically used to decorate bathrooms:
- Mineral – based on cement;
- polymer – acrylic or silicone;
- silicate – based on potassium glass, the most durable, but expensive;
- Camedium – with marble, granite chips.
The better to plaster the walls in the bathroom
The characteristics of the bathroom finish wall decoration must be considered when choosing the kind of material that will work best in a particular scenario.
Under the tile
The tile, as opposed to a paint layer, gives the walls extra waterproofing, ensuring that moisture intrusion is consistently prevented. Both cement and gypsum compositions can be used to tile walls, though the latter should be used with caution. Gypsum is not as strong as cement, so if there is a lot of weight on the ceramic, the plastered layer may just come off. Should gypsum plaster be required, it must be coated with deep penetration primers or primers two to three times.
Furthermore, the risk of moisture seeping under the tile increases with extended operation as the inter-seams gradually weaken. Gypsum plaster starts to crumble gradually. When gypsum and tile glue come into contact, one of the gypsum’s other hazardous characteristics becomes apparent: etric mineralization. The latter causes the concrete to undergo what is known as sulfate corrosion, which is why the wall is rapidly collapsing.
As a result, you’ll need to create a more sturdy protective barrier between gypsum plaster and tiles, and use premium silicone sealant to seal the joints between individual parts. This is the only method for making gypsum moisture resistant in the bathroom. It is preferable to use cement plaster with the addition of polymer components that lower the risk of cracking in order to avoid such issues.
For painting
In order to properly stain the surface, the walls must be perfectly level because any paint will highlight any cracks, chips, bumps, and scratches. Naturally, gypsum mixtures allow for a smoother base, but the paint’s thin coating won’t shield them from moisture. The plaster will start to peel and collapse even with small damage.
If painting the bathroom walls is the chosen course of action, you must plaster the walls using dependable cement mixtures. Cement’s strength and resistance to moisture let you make long-lasting, high-quality repairs. Finish putty must be applied using thin, dispersed compositions after the draft layer has been applied, and these compositions must then be polished until smooth. If you have extra money to work with, you can use any polymer plaster as long as it meets all the requirements.
Waterproofing compounds
Certain building mixes also contain unique ingredients called hydrophobizers, which aid in achieving a fully waterproof coating. Usually, tiny amounts of liquid glass, latex, and asphalt are mixed into the plaster. These compounds are particularly advised for the application of gypsum grooves, which are commonly used to create bathroom partitions.
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Durability and a polished finish are ensured by selecting the appropriate plaster for your bathroom and applying it correctly. Since bathrooms are often damp, start by choosing a plaster that is mold- and moisture-resistant. Plaster adhesion depends on the surface being properly prepped, which includes cleaning and priming. Plaster is applied in thin, even layers to create a smooth texture and help avoid cracks. Your bathroom walls will look fantastic and last longer if you finish with a waterproof sealant and give them enough time to dry between layers.
Wall alignment technology plaster
You are free to use your hands for all work if you so choose. With a few minor variations, the general idea of operation will be comparable to wall décor in typical rooms.
Materials and tools
Tools, supplies, and consumables for the task should be ready ahead of time:
- plaster mixture;
- water;
- a container for breeding a solution;
- primer;
- roller, brush for priming;
- Patron for the primer;
- Construction mixer or drill with nozzle;
- grinder;
- bucket for a solution or trowel;
- rule;
- level;
- chisel;
- spatulas of different sizes;
- grater for rubbing and grinding;
- Ready beacons.
Preparation of the grounds for work
You must first decide if the old coating should be removed or left on the wall. Because paint or whitewashing adheres poorly to plaster, any paint or whitewashing on the bathroom walls will need to be removed. In the event that the power tool is unavailable, the paint is removed using a hard metal brush or a grinder. After completely drying the wall, rinse the lime with water.
Beautiful crumbling surfaces are also free of outdated plaster. Eliminate any areas that have signs of bitumen, oil, fungus, or mold (the latter needs special compounds applied on top). The grinder is also useful for cleaning the damaged areas all the way up to the concrete base. Concrete stains can be removed with a solvent.
Polymer plaster or dense, intact cement do not come off. A hammer is used to tap it in order to ensure that the fastening is reliable. Even so, the material is torn off when voids are found beneath areas that produce a dull sound. A typical cement mortar consisting of one part cement and three parts sand is used to extend, exhaust, and close cracks. Additionally, injectable liquid epoxy resin works well for dependable internal crack sealing. Fiberglass tapes intended for reinforcement are used when lighting large cracks. The solution fixes even more extensive flaws that were initially caused by broken bricks.
Since the freshly laid concrete walls are fairly smooth, small notches are made on them with a chisel (2–3 mm deep, or 200–300 pieces per square meter of wall), before the plaster is applied. Using any sharp object, the seams in the new brickwork are slightly deeper. Following the preparatory phase, the base is fully coated with two to three layers of primer and fully dried in between.
Installation of lighthouses
You cannot put something in the bathroom because it is small and there haven’t been any significant changes to the beacons. The fastening of the guides is an obligatory step in the process if the walls’ curvature is significant, such as their area. The profiles are fixed onto a repair solution, and a level is used to precisely measure their position. Lighthouses are first fixed to the sides and then, at a distance roughly equivalent to the rule’s length, along the entire wall.
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Calculation of the material
The thickness of the layer must be determined in order to determine how much plaster is needed. Use a rule or level to measure the height variations in the vertical plane at various points in order to compute this value. A summary is created by dividing the received numbers by the total number of points. The average thickness of the upcoming plaster layer will be the outcome.
The average consumption in kilograms per square meter for a specific layer thickness is found on the packaging of the chosen construction mixture (usually the manufacturer gives norms with a thickness of 10 mm). The calculated plaster layer moves in relation to this indicator and the bathroom walls’ total area measured in square meters. The final weight (in kg) is divided by the package’s weight (usually 25–30 kg) to determine how many plaster bags you will need to purchase. To avoid heading to the store once the solution is reached, make sure to adjust the figure to the stock factor (1.1).
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Preparation of plaster
Diluting the construction mixture strictly follows the instructions found on the package, which are always available. A clean container is filled with enough cool water, which is gradually added to the plaster. Low speeds are used to knead a construction mixer until its structure becomes uniform. Plaster with the consistency of thick sour cream should be the end product.
After five minutes of exposure, the composition is mixed once more. Use it for 40–60 minutes, or until the mass started to solidify, making sure that, for once, no part is diluted. If the plaster is made separately, a slightly more liquid solution is made for the first layer (spraying), and a thicker solution for the subsequent layers.
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Application of plaster
Both automated and manual methods can be used to apply the solution. Since the first scenario will necessitate costly equipment, this method is rarely employed in independent bathroom decoration. Typically, manual application is used, which produces excellent results when combined with technology.
Starting layer
There is a small amount of water on the construction base. The mixture is gathered onto a trowel and applied to the wall in a continuous layer no thicker than 5–9 mm. The plaster instantly shakes with the base as a result of the forceful throws. Using a spatula, the plaster was somewhat leveled, but not very thoroughly. Give it a couple of hours to set.
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Black finish
In order to level the solution for the second layer, a 5 mm layer of plaster is applied to the wall using a trowel or spatula. A rule is then applied to the base and leads to the areas between the beacons. The tool should ascend, removing a level layer that stays within the beacon range. With a spatula, excess composition is quickly removed. Move from one location to another until they have covered the whole wall. Using a grater or spatula, precisely align these areas after removing the beacons and sealing the recesses with the solution after grasping the plaster.
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Finish processing
After solidifying, but before the draft layer’s last drying phase starts. A brush is used to moisten the plaster with water if it has dried too hard. Using a wide spatula, apply the final layer from the bottom up, arranging it at a 15–20 degree angle and making even, long vertical movements. A thin spatula is used in the corners and surrounding the pipes. The excess composition from the band edges is promptly removed using a spatula blade. The layer should not be thicker than two to three millimeters.
They treat every inch of the bathroom grater’s walls after applying the plaster and waiting for it to partially cure. Counterclockwise circular motions are used to make ground. The grater is gently pressed against the wall to even out any imperfections in bulging areas. When the wall is finally dry, they apply a primer (if staining is intended) and proceed with the full finish.
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Selecting the appropriate plaster for your bathroom is essential to guarantee longevity and a superior finish. Bathrooms are high-moisture environments, so choosing a plaster that can resist these circumstances is crucial. Because they resist mold growth and moisture, lime-based plasters and waterproof gypsum plasters are great options. To make sure the plaster is appropriate for usage in a bathroom, always review the product specifications.
Applying bathroom plaster correctly is just as crucial. Make sure the surface is dry, clean, and free of any loose materials before beginning. If necessary, use a bonding agent to improve the plaster’s adhesion. To get the proper consistency when mixing the plaster, carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Thin, even layers of plaster should be applied; let each layer completely dry before applying the next. This will guarantee a polished, flawless finish and stop cracks.
It’s time to seal the plaster after it has fully dried. Plaster will last longer and be shielded from moisture with a high-quality sealer. Select a sealer that works well with the kind of plaster you’ve used. For optimal results, apply the sealant in a well-ventilated area and as directed by the application instructions. To ensure that your bathroom plaster retains its integrity and beauty over time, you must complete this last step.
In conclusion, choosing the appropriate plaster and applying it correctly require close examination of the product’s characteristics as well as painstaking application and preparation. You can get a long-lasting, visually appealing finish that will improve the appearance of your bathroom and endure over time by adhering to these guidelines.