Plastering of a wooden house: what, how and for what

Although plastering a wooden house may seem strange, it’s a great way to improve your home’s appearance and durability. Plaster can enhance insulation, shield the wooden structure from the elements, and add a distinctive visual element to the home. To guarantee a durable and efficient finish, this process requires careful planning and the appropriate materials.

Wood naturally expands and contracts in response to variations in humidity and temperature. Plastering on wood is therefore a little trickier than it is on other surfaces. However, the plaster can adhere well and provide a durable surface if the proper preparation is made, which includes using mesh or lath to create a stable base. To prevent cracks and other problems later on, it’s critical to select the proper plaster type and apply it correctly.

Plastering a wooden house has advantages that go beyond aesthetics. Plaster that has been applied correctly can serve as a moisture barrier, preventing decay and rot in the wood. Additionally, it adds a layer of insulation that helps keep the house cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Energy savings and a cozier home are possible outcomes of this.

Plastering provides an adaptable option for maintaining the rustic charm of your wooden home or giving it a more contemporary appearance. It’s an investment in your property’s durability and aesthetic appeal. With a little preparation and the appropriate technique, you can achieve a stunning, long-lasting finish that will improve your wooden home.

Topic	Details
What	Plastering a wooden house involves applying a protective and decorative coating on the wooden surfaces.
Materials	The main materials used are plaster, bonding agents, and sometimes mesh or lath for better adhesion.
How	First, prepare the surface by cleaning and applying a bonding agent. Then, apply the plaster in layers, allowing each to dry before adding the next.
Tools	Common tools include trowels, brushes, mixing buckets, and smoothing tools.
Why	Plastering provides protection against weather, enhances insulation, and improves the appearance of the wooden house.

Plastering wooden walls – the need to conduct

Numerous contemporary plastering mixtures are appropriate for protecting wooden structures in addition to being used to decorate brick and concrete. However, the tree of wood is subject to a number of limitations. For instance, the solution should only be applied after they are connected to the sorcerer.

If plastering it with a tree results in such high labor costs, why even do it? If there are any questions regarding the necessity of these steps, it is beneficial to review the following list of problems that can be readily resolved by plastering wooden walls:

• prevention of drying out and cracking logs;
• protection against precipitation, dampness, harmful effects of oxygen;
• prevention of rotting, molding, settlement of insects, damage by rodents;
• insulation of the building and eliminating even the smallest cracks;
• improving sound insulation and increasing the fire resistance of the walls;
• Giving evenness to the internal walls for finishing.

The wood is consistently shielded by the plaster from the slow, inevitable decay that results from moisture absorption. Some rotten areas will require replacement in 15-20 years if no more plastering is done. Plastering a building stops or significantly slows down decay, extending the building’s lifespan.

Choosing the appropriate materials and methods for plastering a wooden house is essential to ensuring its longevity and visual appeal. Preparing the wood surface, selecting a plaster that works, and applying it properly are all important steps in preventing future problems like moisture damage and cracking. This procedure guarantees that your wooden house endures the test of time by adding an additional layer of protection against the elements while also enhancing the visual appeal of your house.

Plaster of a wooden house inside

It is recommended that exterior finishing work be done only after the building has completely shrunk, which should happen in a year or two. The application of a solution, installation of shock and beacons, and preparation are among the several required steps in plastering.

Materials and tools

You must purchase an appropriate construction mixture or the necessary components for its independent kneading in order to complete high-quality wall decoration. In order to stop plaster from shrinking, pure water and fiberglass or polypropylene fiber will also be needed. The following are additional plastering supplies:

• PVA (to accelerate the setting of cement solutions);
• liquid soap (to reduce the speed of solidification of gypsum and increase the plasticity of cement);
• pine or wooden fights up to 2 meters long, 3-7 mm thick, 25-40 mm wide;
• metal beacons, screws and fasteners;
• plastering nails of 25 and 40 mm long;
• solvent.

To avoid having to look for tools while working, they should also be organized beforehand. The following is a list of standard equipment the master might require:

• ladder for work at high altitude;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• hammer and saw on wood;
• Bulgarian;
• plane;
• construction mixer or concrete mixer;
• Kelma (trowel);
• long rule;
• plaster bucket or spatula;
• half a house and a construction grater;
• Glade;
• construction level and roulette;
• durable lace;
• marker or pencil.

Preparation of walls

If you haven’t already, you need to finish installing doors and windows before you can begin plastering. Examine the wiring for accuracy and integrity, take out the switches and sockets. Extension cords must be connected to outlets in another room in order to use the electricity.

The walls are closely inspected, the quality of the cracks’ slotting is verified, and installation foam is used if needed. Get rid of all forms of pollution. If you are unable to clean and wipe them, crush wood chips with a shirt. The adherence of the wooden stucco with wood severely disturbs fatty, oily areas, necessitating their removal with a solvent.

Although a notch in the wood is made to improve the clutch of plaster with the wall, this method of attachment is thought to be more successful. If the notching method is still chosen, the notches are made at a 45-degree angle across the entire wall using a standard ax. The notches should have a width equal to the size of the ax blade and a depth of no more than 1 cm. High humidity areas require the installation of a waterproofing layer, such as roofing material.

Fastening before plaster

Plastering walls with wooden fight is an efficient method that also keeps the base from cracking. Conifer trees are preferred for rack production because they are less prone to rot. Dranca is nailed straight to the wood or directly onto the waterproofing layer in wet rooms. Water is used to moisten the rails along their fibers; this will lower the possibility of cracking during attachment. Additionally, the work order will resemble this:

1. Net up the first layer of rails at an angle of 45 degrees with even lines, fixing them every 4-5 cm at two points using nails (the latter should be thicker than the sob itself), work begins with the upper corner.
2. Join the second layer of shingles (output drum), and it is better if the thickness of the rails of this layer is 1-2 mm larger than that of the previous one. The mounting of the shouts is carried out at an angle of 90 degrees, more long nails are used every 15 cm.
3. As a result, a mesh with the same cells is formed. So that the rails do not crack when driving several nails into one line, they are shifted in relation to each other.

Installation of lighthouses

You can apply plaster without installing lighthouses if you have a lot of work experience and high qualifications. If not, it is safer to apply a uniform layer of plaster and avoid having to start over from scratch. The following procedure is used to install the beacons:

• About 10 cm from the ceiling and 10 cm from the next wall put a point, screw the self -tapping screw here;
• Similarly, act in the lower part of the wall, finding a comparable point, as a result of the screws should be located strictly in one plane;
• A couple of screws are also screwed at the opposite end of the wall;
• pull the laces between the screws on horizontal, verticals and diagonals;
• The most convex place is found on the wall, given the position of the laces;
• By twisting and twisting of screws, the laces are placed so that the “hump” is above the found (the minimum thickness of the plaster layer);
• With the help of special mounts, metal beacons are installed, focusing on the position of the laces, the extreme beacons are placed 15 cm from the walls, the rest – every meter from each other;
• They start plastering work.

Preparation of plaster

Plaster that is made of one part diluted gypsum and four parts lime is a good choice for interior wood work. Since gypsum plasters harden quickly, a small amount of the solution is added to the lime along with the gypsum and water, and the mixture is kneaded gradually. The solution is continuously mixed in order to lengthen the duration of work with it. Plaster requires that the lime be extinguished beforehand to prevent the released gas from causing the coating to crack too soon.

Additionally, you can use plaster made of one part cement, three parts sand (fraction up to one millimeter), connected in dry form, and one part diluted lime milk to work with interior wooden surfaces. A regular cement mortar with enhancements can be used. After mixing for ten minutes, such plaster is applied to the surface.

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Instructions for plastering internal walls

It should be noted that the walls’ moisture content shouldn’t be higher than 12% before applying the solution. If this requirement is not met, mold will grow on trees and even a layer of plaster won’t stop the walls from rotting.

Clay for plaster

A wooden house can also be finished with this low-cost material. The most important thing is to determine the right amount of sand to add and to select a clay that is ideal for making plaster—one with the right amount of plasticity and fat content. More sand—between two and five parts—will be needed to dilute clay with a higher fat content. The following small amount of experience is used to ascertain the raw material properties:

• take a little clay, rub them to get rid of lumps, then pour water;
• After 2 days, water located on top of clay is drained, the material itself is divided into 4 parts;
• In each portion, the amount of sand (2, 3, 4 and 5 parts) is added to each portion, all samples are mixed well, if necessary, a little water is administered;
• From each portion of clay with sand, “sausages” are rolled with a length of 50-60 cm with a diameter of about 10 mm;
• wound "sausages" on the stalk of any garden tool, evaluate their condition.

The "sausage" will twist the stalk tightly and only tiny cracks will show on it if the clay has the ideal qualities and the right proportion of sand is added. Вогда глина тощая, «колбаска» станет рассыпаться, чересчур жирная — будет покрываться большими трещинами. The best-behaving solution ought to serve as a template for plaster preparation before woodworking.

Clay is also poured with water prior to the creation of plaster; however, to expedite the process, the container is wrapped in cellophane and exposed to the sun’s rays. Once the liquid has been drained, the mass is removed from the leftover roots, grass, and other trash by wiping it until it resembles thick sour cream.

To give plaster’s composition insulating qualities, you can add fiber, sawdust, perlite, and needles (you can even do this on your own by crushing polypropylene bags). It is covered with a thin layer of cement to prolong the life of the clay plaster that has already been applied. This will lessen the amount of air that seeps into the pores and help to give the top layer hardness.

Cement

Plasters made of cement that require separate preparation will also be reasonably priced. A M75 solution is made for wooden walls, which involves mixing cement and sand in a specific ratio. The type of cement directly affects how much sand is used:

• M 200 – 1: 2.5;
• M 300 – 1: 3;
• M 400 – 1: 4;
• M 500 – 1: 5;
• M 600 – 1:

Plaster’s quality deteriorates by one value after six months of release, so it is crucial to take the cement’s expiration date into account. Additionally, a smaller percentage of sand will need to be added. Sand is sieved to remove impurities before joining the dry components. Once combined with cement, allow the sandstones to turn gray. Plaster can optionally contain fiber-fiber, which will lessen the possibility of a layer shrinking and keep it from cracking.

Small amounts of dry ingredients are combined with water and thoroughly mixed in a concrete mixer or construction mixer. To enhance the solution’s plasticity and facilitate its application on a tree, a small amount of liquid soap (60-100 ml) is added to each 10 l of water. Lime milk, which is a 1:1 mixture of lime and water, is added to the plaster if the relative humidity in the space rises. They apply the plaster to the walls, let it dry for a month, and then start the finishing process.

Gypsum for plaster

Gypsum solutions are considered the most plastic, light, convenient to apply, but are the most expensive. In addition, they will have to be diluted in small portions, because they freeze for 10-20 minutes. It is difficult to interfere with gypsum or alabaster with the addition of plasticizers independently, it is better to buy a ready -made composition. It is diluted with water according to the instructions, like measuring the amount of powder and liquid. Usually for every 25 kg of the mixture it is necessary to 17 liters of water, although it is not worth it to immediately knead the entire package. After whipping the funds, they let him stand for 5 minutes, then mix once again and immediately proceed to plastering.

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Application of plaster

Plastering a wall follows a process that is nearly identical to that of processing regular walls without shouting:

1. Spray. For this layer, a little PVA glue is introduced into the plaster to make the product more plastic. The solution is collected with a spatula, and on the wall is applied with your hands, because it is inconvenient to work on the shuttlecock with tools. They begin plastering from the lower left corner of the wall, moving between lighthouses to the right. Drive the layer by the rule, making sure that its thickness does not exceed 1 cm. Let the plaster partially grab.
2. Priming. A solution for this layer is prepared without glue. It should be quite thick, reminiscent of a viscous dough. The soil is applied with a cell, a spatula or a hopper-chop, well leveled, providing a thickness of not more than 2 cm. After completion of work, the plaster should be completely equal to the beacons. Sites on which she lay down too thin layer is processed again. On the contrary, in the zones with an excessively thick layer the plaster is removed. After 5 hours, they wipe the wall with a half -terrain, moving it in circular movements counterclockwise.
3. Shelter. After the final drying of the soil, the last, thinnest layer (up to 2 mm) is performed. It is made with fairly liquid plaster, and a solution based on one cement (without sand) is ideal for this purpose). After application, the layer is wiped with a construction grater, giving it smoothness. If necessary, use the ironing iron moisturized water.

Grout of plaster

An essential step in plastering a wooden log home is wiping the walls. The smoothness of the surface cannot be achieved without grouting, and this will negatively impact the finish. Grout can have a longitudinal or circular shape. When a grater is driven in circles with light pressure in the first example, its strength increases over convexes and decreases over hollows.

The tool is moved horizontally in the second passage and from top to bottom for longitudinal wiping. Wet the wall or grater beforehand with water. A spatula blade is used to remove plaster from the tool’s edges if it starts to collect there. If decorative plaster or tile pasting are to be applied to the walls, then grout is not used at all.

Plaster of a wooden house outside

In order to prevent moisture from "locking" in the wood, the exterior decoration of a wooden house is completed after the interior wall decoration. First steps in the process include packing the shouts and preparing the walls. Mineral wool packages vibrate in the large cracks and joints of the logs, scoring the slats into the largest cracks. Place beacons after the battle has been nailed (some builders replace it with a sturdy plaster net); without them, it will be challenging to construct even walls. Apply a layer of plaster that is between 15 and 20 mm thick. Mix the plaster with a little PVA glue to make the mixture more liquid than it would be for internal work.

Plaster is shielded from the effects of freezing and direct sunlight while being allowed to dry naturally. Consider scheduling your work for late spring or early autumn to facilitate compliance with these requirements. In the future, ready-made decorative plasters will be used, applied in a thinner layer, to give the facade an appealing appearance. Plasters that are most frequently used are:

• mineral;
• acrylic;
• silicone;
• silicate.

On the basis of silicone and silicate, the most costly materials are also the most dependable and long-lasting. Different versions of modern plasters are made according to texture and color. 28 days after the rough finish, you can use natural or artificial stone cladding in addition to decorative plastering.

Drying plastered surfaces

There are no techniques employed to quicken the process’s natural progression during the first three days. The top layer will dry out too quickly and crackle later if you disregard this rule. You may install a heat gun or provide regular ventilation in the room to help hasten the coating’s drying process by four to five days.

External walls typically dehydrate on their own. It’s crucial to keep them out of the wind, sunshine, and precipitation during this time. To avoid damaging the plaster layer, a robust plastic film is applied to the walls for this purpose.

Plastering a wooden house has many advantages, such as improving its visual appeal and adding more weather resistance. In order to guarantee longevity and durability, the procedure calls for meticulous preparation and material selection. Through comprehension of the necessary procedures and equipment, homeowners can attain a polished, appealing surface that accentuates the inherent charm of wood.

Selecting the appropriate plaster is essential. Because it is flexible and breathes well, cement-lime plaster is frequently chosen for wooden structures. Thoroughly cleaning and priming the wooden surface improves the adhesion and extends the life of the plaster. Applying a mesh base can also help to add extra support and stop cracking.

The application procedure calls for accuracy and patience. Usually, there are several layers involved, with a rough coat applied first and smoother finishing coats applied afterwards. Enough drying time between layers is necessary to guarantee a stable and strong finish. When it comes to getting a professional look, having the right tools—like trowels and floats—can really help.

In the end, applying plaster to a wooden house not only preserves the wood but also lets you express your creativity with different textures and finishes. Plastering gives you a variety of options to improve the exterior of your home, whether you want a rustic or modern aesthetic. You can take pleasure in a gorgeously plastered wooden house for many years to come with the right methods and supplies.

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