How to stick drywall to the wall correctly

Although attaching drywall to a wall may seem difficult, if you take the proper approach, it’s a simple project that can greatly improve any room’s look and use. Drilling is a great option if you want to add insulation or create a smooth surface for painting. We’ll take you step-by-step through the procedure in this guide to make sure you get a polished finish.

It’s crucial to gather all required tools and materials before beginning. A utility knife, drywall sheets, adhesive, a level, a tape measure, and a few other common supplies are required. It’s also important to set up your workspace; make sure the wall is clear of loose objects and is dry, clean, and clean. This will guarantee that your drywall stays in place and aid in the adhesive’s proper bond.

Accurate measurement and cutting are essential for successfully attaching drywall to a wall. Precise measurements guarantee that your drywall sheets fit precisely, minimizing the need for extensive alterations down the road. When cutting the drywall, score and snap the sheets to the desired size using a sharp utility knife. You can get precise fit and clean edges with this method.

Another crucial step is correctly applying the adhesive. When applying adhesive to the wall where the drywall will be installed, use a trowel with a notch. Make sure the drywall sheets adhere correctly by pressing them firmly against the wall. Using a level to ensure that every sheet is straight and correctly aligned as you go is a good idea.

Before moving on to the next finishing step, wait until the adhesive has completely dried after all of the sheets have been placed. To achieve a smooth finish ready for painting, this may involve sanding the surface, joint compound, and taping the seams. Attaching drywall to a wall can be a satisfying do-it-yourself project that completely changes your room if you are patient and meticulous.

Step	Description
1. Prepare the wall	Clean the wall of any dust and debris, and remove any loose plaster or wallpaper.
2. Measure and cut drywall	Measure the wall dimensions and cut the drywall sheets to fit, ensuring precise cuts for outlets and switches.
3. Apply adhesive	Use a notched trowel to spread drywall adhesive evenly on the back of the drywall sheets or directly onto the wall.
4. Position the drywall	Carefully lift and press the drywall sheets onto the wall, ensuring they are aligned properly.
5. Secure the drywall	Hold the drywall in place until the adhesive sets, then use screws or nails to secure the edges and prevent sagging.
6. Finish the seams	Apply joint tape over the seams, then cover with joint compound, smoothing it out with a putty knife.
7. Sand and prime	Once the joint compound is dry, sand it smooth, then apply a primer before painting or wallpapering.

Installation of drywall on glue – when possible

Sometimes the only appropriate way to level walls with drywall is to use the adhesive method. Conversely, there are times when the method is ineffective or fails to produce a truly excellent outcome. When is it possible to adhere drywall to a wall with glue? When fixing small rooms, it is usually advised to use glue drywall in order to preserve a functional space. Here are some more instances where hanging drywall is permitted:

1. The presence of minor defects of walls – blockages, holes, differences up to 5 cm in size. Good glue will help to hide bumps, firmly fixing the GKL sheet. With vast pits and potholes, it is better to use screws, because cash expenses on glue will be significant.
2. Door finish, window openings. To form slopes, only glue is properly used, the metal frame should not be used.
3. The alignment of the ceiling. GCL fastening without profile will help maintain the normal height of the ceiling in the initially low rooms. It is only important to fix the sheets to the moment of the glue completely dry, otherwise they can fall under their weight. Usually dowels are used for this purpose.

Additionally, glue is sometimes used to decorate drywall in two layers: the first layer is adhered to the metal frame, and the second layer is adhered on top. While skilled builders just use screws to secure GKL, glue can also be used for added reliability.

What can I glue drywall – the basis of walls and ceiling

You should consider more factors than just mounting glue’s suitability for drywall work when choosing one. When using the proper tool, it shouldn’t "conflict" with the leveled base material. Regarding the GCL, selecting the adhesive is simple: most thick, astringent compositions adhere perfectly to construction cardboard (the top layer of drywall) or porous craft paper. The wall foundation is typically the subject of restrictions; this is an important consideration.

Brick, aerated concrete, shell

Strongly demonstrated ability to adhere GKL gypsum plaster. It is perfect for caulking large seams on an uneven surface. The majority of gypsum-based building mixtures are reasonably priced; one square meter will cost roughly 50 rubles. The most well-liked ones are the Knauf, Volma Perlfix.

Monetical foam can also be used for gas blocks, foam block bases, and bricklaying. It works quickly and effectively, and the outcome of the material’s dependable fastening is superb. After using a "snake" to apply foam to the sheet and waiting a few minutes, GKL is attached to the wall. The issue could be more foam expansion, so it’s best to apply the dowel-clavic fastening in addition. It is worthwhile to use special polyurethane glue in cylinders instead of foam, but the cost is orders of magnitude higher.

Concrete

The simplest method for adhering drywall to a concrete wall is to use regular cement tile adhesive on the ceiling. If the wall is monolithic, then decoration happens quickly and its imperfections are negligible. Panel partitions may be more uneven; in certain situations, it is preferable to install drywall using the frame method.

Gluing is another application for GKLs besides cement solutions:

• gypsum solution or putty;
• mounting foam and polyurethane glue;
• Acrylic putty.

While all of these products offer good adhesion even at small seam thicknesses, using small-grain cement mixtures is more cost-effective.

Foam polystyrene

Foam, foam, and polystyrene foam insulation are frequently the starting points for the installation of GKL. They keep the space from freezing, but they are incomplete and need to be covered with drywall. The use of the metal frame will only make the issue worse if we consider that insulation hides the adequate amount of space in the room. You will need to use GKL-specific glue-pens or acrylic putty to adhere the sheets together.

Drywall, GVL

The second layer of drywall can adhere GKL using nearly any method on gypsum fiber. The base is perfectly even, so the master does not need to smooth out any flaws or wall defects. As a result, it is preferable to select adhesives and solutions that offer the smallest possible seam thickness, such as silicone sealants, acrylic putty, and liquid nails. It is not recommended to use foam, gypsum, or cement as they will add needless thickness to the joints.

Tile

When kitchen and bathroom repairs are being done, it sometimes happens that drywall sheets are glued straight along the tile. It makes sense to use silicone sealants in a wet room. Tile glue that is resistant to moisture can be used in situations where humidity levels are moderately or unevenly raised. These funds have a high degree of adhesion, last a long time, and do not degrade when the room’s microclimate changes.

Make sure the tile glue or sealant you purchase has an antiseptic and fungicide included; these ingredients will help prevent the growth of mold and fungus. To ensure a more dependable fixing of the structure, the sealant can also be filled with broken interseams.

Baguette

Plasterboard walls are adhered to with ceiling skirting boards using acrylic putty. The baguette has a dense texture, and it won’t move off the wall until the composition catches. Additionally, the bumps can be concealed and the space between the wall and the finishing material can be artfully cleaned with white putty. Synthetic adhesives such as "Titan," "moment," and "liquid nails" are also frequently used in place of acrylic putty.

Tree

Typically, polyurethane glue is used to clad wooden walls. There ought to be a warning on the packaging regarding potential wood work. Alternatively, epoxy resin-based funds are available for purchase, but they are pricey and require a lot of work to operate. The drywall needs to be treated with an antiseptic to prevent fungal infection before being adhered to the walls. Additionally, adding to the mounting of GKL dowel-claws is advised.

Types of glue

All glues can be categorized into putty, mounting foam, mastic, synthetic products, and specialized compounds (based on gypsum, cement, and polymers). Using a spatula, apply dry building mixtures to the pre-primed surface after diluting them with water to the appropriate consistency.

Typically, mastics contain lime, gypsum, and unique adhesive substances. Additionally, they are combined with water and allowed to swell the granules before drywall sheets are installed. Liquid and foam nails come in 750 ml cylinders and are applied pointwise, in the shape of a snake, stripes, etc., rather than continuously. The majority of the time, drywall putty is ready to use, doesn’t require diluting, and is based on acrylic.

The following are the most well-known adhesive brands available:

• “Ceresit” – includes a large line of funds, many are suitable for drywall;
• “Perlfix” – makes it possible to stick GKL even on porous and uneven bases;
• Fugenfüller – the company produces a variety of construction mixtures diluted with water and applied by a roller;
• "KNAUF FEEN" – includes a line of plastic adhesives that help glue GKL and other deformable materials.

Advantages and disadvantages

Since high-quality adhesives offer a remarkably dependable attachment to the walls and ceiling, the frameless approach is frequently employed. There is no denying the benefits of using adhesives:

• light, quick installation of drywall;
• lack of need for special skills;
• a lower cladding price compared to spending on a metal frame;
• significant savings in space;
• Universality of adhesives – they can be used both for putting walls, and for subsequent gluing of GKL sheets.

The adhesive method’s drawbacks have also. These funds aren’t always usable because the user will have to install a frame or crate because drywall is typically used to hide significant wall flaws. The drawback is that some adhesives take a long time to dry. It takes only a week to complete wall decoration and operate to their full potential with many of them.

Consumption and storage conditions of glue

The amount of glue needed to cover one square meter of drywall depends on the material, how it is made, and how it is applied. The manufacturer will always indicate this indicator on the package, which is dependent on various parameters:

• for even bases – from 1 kg/sq. m;
• With small defects-2-3 kg/kV. m;
• With defects from 2 cm-5-6 kg/kV. m;
• for partitions – 2 kg/sq. m.

Every item used to glue drywall needs to be kept in its original factory packaging. The remaining glue is kept in a dry, dark room and sealed tightly. To protect construction mixtures from the damaging effects of moisture, they should be stored on wooden pallets. Adhesives can have a shelf life ranging from six to twelve months.

Necessary installation tools

You will need a large plastic container (a bucket with a lid will work), a construction mixer, or a drill with a cage nozzle to knead the glue. Although manual mixing is also permitted, the solution’s quality may suffer and lumps may frequently persist. Using a gear spatula and trowel, adhere the drywall sheets. Additionally, the following will be necessary:

• building level;
• knife;
• pencil;
• brush, soil roller;
• if necessary – a reinforcing tape, sealant.

Preparation of walls and glue

It is essential to take preparatory steps because they will improve the glue’s adherence to the surface. The wall level must be precisely measured first. It might be severely curved, in which case drywall fastening will need to be done on profiles. All projecting components and protruding nails need to be taken out. The next tasks that need to be completed are as follows:

• remove the remains of paint, wallpaper, dumped plaster – the wall should be strong, without unstable areas (ideally, only a concrete or brick base with plaster should remain);
• Remove all pollution – dust, fat, dirt spots that reduce adhesion of glue with the surface;
• on the painted wall, to which the glue will be poorly pestering, apply a special adhesion composition with a quartz additive;
• Draw the wall, the ceiling with lines along which drywall will be glued, this will help to lay it smoothly;
• Treat surfaces with low adhesion with a primer (primer), and apply soil to strongly absorbing bases in 2 layers, or use products of the “concrete contact” type;
• give the base completely dry.

Dry powder is added to clean, cold water that has already been poured to knead the glue. Strictly measure the liquid according to the ratio specified on the glue package. Repeat the process after letting the tool stand for five minutes after mixing it with a mixer at low speeds. once the glue is prepared for use.

There are a few simple steps involved in successfully attaching drywall to your wall, and if these are followed, the finished product will be smooth and long-lasting. You lay the groundwork for a strong installation by properly prepping the wall surface and selecting the appropriate adhesive. Cleaning and drying the wall is essential to avoid any dust or debris interfering with the adhesive bond.

For a precise fit, the drywall must be precisely measured and cut. Score the drywall according to the measurements with a utility knife, then snap it neatly along the line. By using this technique, straight edges can be achieved and fewer adjustments will be necessary after the drywall is installed.

Correct adhesive application is an additional crucial step. Apply the adhesive uniformly to the wall or straight onto the drywall sheet using a notched trowel. Make sure the layer of adhesive is uniform to avoid any weak areas. To guarantee complete contact and adhesion, press the drywall firmly against the wall, working your way up from the bottom.

It’s crucial to wait for the adhesive to fully dry after attaching the drywall before doing any additional finishing work. This will guarantee that the drywall stays securely fastened and offer a level surface for painting or other finishing touches. By following these guidelines, you can improve the overall quality and appearance of your interior spaces while also achieving a professional-looking outcome.

Correct drywall installation is essential for a smooth, long-lasting finish in any space. First, prepare the wall surface and cut the drywall precisely to ensure a strong bond. Press the drywall firmly against the wall after using the appropriate adhesive and spreading it evenly. Use screws or nails to further secure it, making sure that all of the edges are flush and the joints are tight. Lastly, to create a seamless appearance, tape and mud the seams. Your drywall will be firmly in place after completing these steps, ready for painting or finishing.

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