Bourgeois stove and mangal with your own hands: useful disposal of the old battery and cylinder

Not only is repurposing old items into useful pieces for your home or garden environmentally friendly, but it also stimulates your creativity. This guide explains how to use an old battery and cylinder to transform an old bourgeois stove and mangal (barbecue grill). With this project, you can customize and design original outdoor features in addition to giving unwanted items new life.

Old batteries and gas cylinders that are no longer in use are common in homes and frequently wind up in the trash. However, these things can be repurposed into something practical and useful with a little imagination and DIY spirit. You can make useful items for outdoor cooking and heating out of what would have otherwise been trash by modifying a bourgeois stove and mangal.

To guarantee functionality and safety, the procedure calls for cautious handling. You can salvage parts that can be incorporated into the stove and mangal’s design by disassembling the old battery and cylinder using simple tools and materials. This do-it-yourself project promotes creativity and resourcefulness while also saving money.

It can be satisfying to build a bourgeois stove and mangal out of recycled materials, regardless of your level of experience with do-it-yourself projects. You can contribute to sustainable practices while exploring your creative side. Join us as we walk you through the process of turning these abandoned objects into useful and eye-catching outdoor accents.

Garage stove

The most practical choice for heating a garage or other small space is a bourgeois stove. It is equally appropriate for providing temporary heating for a house under construction because it requires little room and heats up quickly.

Crucial! You won’t have to pay money for a finished stove if there is an old cast-iron battery for 7-8 sections.

You’ll need the following accessories for work:

• steel sheets 3-5 mm thick;
• Profile pipes 10*10 mm, 20*20 mm, 50*20 mm;
• A steel strip of 20 mm;
• asbestos cord;
• heat -resistant glass;
• welded loops – 3 sets;
• bolts for the door of the furnace – 3 pieces;
• Bulgarian;
• metal brush;
• welding machine.

How to make a stove

The battery is first broken down into its component parts. The quickest and least time-consuming method is to twist nipples using a grinder.

Cut the ribs off of each section, then take out 14–16 of the same preparation tubes, mowing the ends on one side. Paint and nap accumulate inside, so they are added to the fire directly alongside firewood and allowed to burn out thoroughly. After that, use a brush to remove any soot from the metal ribs.

Get welding. The furnace’s two side walls are welded together continuously from the blanks, with the joints’ tightness being closely inspected. The front wall frame is formed as a frame by boiling 50*20 mm and 20*20 mm of pipe. Gorizontal is positioned in between the two vertical cuts to allow for the installation of three doors: one for firewood, one for ashin, and one for access to the burning chamber for soot removal.

Next, make the letter "P"-shaped frame for the back wall. It ought to come out slightly higher than the front wall’s department for the shiner. The letter "P" has a transverse tube whose tips extend to the sides because it is slightly wider than the frame. A piece of steel sheet is used to brew the aperture between the tubes.

Installation of the furnace

The front and back wall frames are joined by sheet steel sides. They are removed from the heating battery in terms of height and blank width.

The sidewalls, which are likewise composed of steel sheets, are welded to the bottom. Create a wavy insert and fit it snugly into the cooked batteries’ ribs. It is also made of steel, and each rib’s length should be less than the wall’s width.

Weld the walls between the batteries and the stove’s frame slightly below the incline while also welding a wavy insert in between. It is positioned in the center of the aperture.

Then they behave as follows:

1. The stove is put on the side, brew a gap between the lower sidewalls of sheets and beveled walls of batteries – small steel inserts of a suitable size are attached here.
2. They cut out and weld the upper part of the stove, and its long sides are also made wavy (pre -cut a hole under the chimney).
3. Cut and weld the insert into the rear wall to hide the clearance, as well as narrow inserts for gaps between the ribs and the frame of the front wall.

The profile pipe is used to create the firebox door, and it is thickened with a strip to ensure a tight fit. Two walls are created by welding the first row of a strip around the perimeter and the second row after one centimeter.

Positioned an asbestos cord between them. The aperture beneath the furnace door is welded with a frame made of the strip. Consequently, the touch should be made on asbestos when joining with the door, increasing the tightness of the stove chamber.

A thin pipe is used to make the ash door. After cutting out a wall and installing an asbestos cord, leaf steel is brewed into the frame.

Two bolts with a steel insert are welded to the door to lessen internal heating. The sealing strip is fastened to the aperture. All three blanks are brewed with loops for the appropriate openings, and they also prepare the upper door to collect soot.

The glass is inserted and welded to each of the valve’s doors after the seal is placed on the combustion chamber door. Paint that is heat-resistant is applied to the final design if needed.

Carrier

Such a small task can be completed in as little as three hours, if desired. You will require a 50-liter cylinder for work, from which gas residues are extracted.

Counseling! The simplest method is to run water through it from the hose and begin chopping.

Marking

The container has a diameter of 96 cm. A longitudinal seam that runs along it will act as the primary marker.

The lines are drawn, marking the location of the future cover, 24 centimeters measured from the seam in both directions. Place the product horizontally, seam down, and mark the place for the skewers on one line.

Place the tags every 8 cm, spacing them 3 cm apart from the cylinder’s circular seams; there will be 6 tags total. 1 centimeter in diameter. Additionally, the grill cover will end at a distance of 10 cm from the cylinder’s upper circular seam.

Cutting the cylinder

Following the marking process, they start to "cut" the cylinder. They do not reach circular seams by 3 cm; instead, they first create a slot along the line to which the folding cover will be attached. Additionally, the loops are welded while the lid is still in place; if not, you will need to ask an assistant to help you fix the problem.

The lid is totally removed once the loops are welded; it will remain on the hinges and not fall off. They are only now pouring water out of the cylinder.

Welding sections of steel 3–4 cm wide in between the loops secures the lid. A handle can be attached to any curved reinforcement. Cut a strip of metal that is 2-3 mm thick and 3 cm wide, then attach it to the cutting around the entire perimeter to prevent the cover from falling inside.

They create airflow slots on the bottom because otherwise the firewood won’t burn very well. After 5–10 cm or holes, there are enough cuts made with a grinder, but there ought to be more.

Cut the crane and repair the hole with a metal patch after the work is finished. Legs can be attached if desired.

The simplest grill of a gas cylinder or pipe

There is a way to prepare a barbecue even more quickly and simply. To accomplish this, simply cut the cylinder in half strictly, drill holes in the side sections of the air openings, deepen the cut beneath the skewers, and trim the cut along the edges.

The second section comes with an additional barbecue or a cover that fastens to the loops. The metal strip should be welded to the lid so that it cannot fall inside.

Counseling! In a similar vein, use a thick metal pipe to create a barbecue. Indeed, in this instance, you will need to brew the ends using steel circles that have been cut from a sturdy sheet.

Making a bourgeois stove and mangal out of used batteries and cylinders is a creative and useful way to repurpose waste, not merely recycle it. By reusing these materials, you lessen waste and give outdated objects new life, which promotes sustainability.

You can tailor your stove and mangal to suit your needs and tastes by building it yourself. For outdoor cooking, camping vacations, or backyard get-togethers, this do-it-yourself project offers versatility and inventiveness in terms of both design and use.

Safety is crucial when handling materials such as old batteries and cylinders. Throughout the modification process, make sure there is adequate ventilation and thorough cleaning. Comprehending the characteristics of these substances facilitates their safe and efficient handling.

You can successfully make a bourgeois stove and mangal that is both useful and environmentally friendly by carefully following the step-by-step instructions and using caution. Step into the innovative and environmentally conscious mindset as you set out on this do-it-yourself adventure!

This is a succinct and unambiguous main thesis statement for your paper: This guide explains how to make a useful bourgeois stove and mangal out of an old battery and cylinder. You can make useful outdoor cooking equipment out of these materials by following easy instructions and using simple tools. This do-it-yourself project offers an affordable way to improve outdoor parties and cooking experiences in addition to recycling used materials."

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